Portland is Weird
Legend of the Eating Hero
Before my first visit to Portland this last year, many of my friends and families gave me the caution that Portland is weird. I didn’t have an exact understanding of what this meant, other than the notion that the Northwest has historically been considered a haven for the “Hippies, liberals, and tree-huggers.” That being said, I hoped Portland was weird; at least this meant that its cuisine offerings would not be bland. It did not disappoint. I spent a three-day period traveling around to local spots, suburban eateries, and enjoying the incessant rain, abundance of Thai and sushi restaurants and a Chinese and Japanese garden. It was a trip that was as memorable as the occasion for which I had traveled.
Thanks to the Food Network, Bourdain and a series of web sites, I decided to make my destination to the following spots:
- Voodoo Donuts
- Otto’s Sausage Kitchen and Meat Market
- Pok Pok
- Lan Su Gardens
- Japanese Gardens
- Powell Books
There were other sites I visited and dined at but they were unplanned and will be covered towards the end of this post.
My first full day in Portland was met with the constant mist and rain this region is known for. Luckily, I had the world’s largest umbrella and a luxury SUV to shuttle me around (Thanks Paul). My first “food” stop: Voodoo Donuts. Featured on just about every travel and food show, Voodoo Donuts seeks to be the perfect representation of the “Keep Portland Weird” slogan, plastered across various walls, billboards and bumper stickers in the city. The go-and-buy local slogan could be no truer than in Voodoo. I was advised to arrive early since long lines usually form quickly. I didn’t arrive early. The rain poured hardest when in line and the building is perfectly situated on a corner building with shoddy roofing drainage. Fortunately, my umbrella, while awkwardly large kept me dry. The total wait time was about 30 minutes until I reached the entrance only to be crowded into a small front cashier area surrounded by obnoxious teenagers with only enough cash to buy one donut (I guess it was worth their wait).
I was cursed to wait in the rain
As soon as I entered, it was like an explosion of awkward. A large donut and graffiti-laden ATM greeted me. So what’s special about Voodoo’s you’re wondering? Well, honestly, it’s the boldness in toppings and nothing else. Before fans of Voodoo begin a critique of my “small” blog, let me preface that my family had been involved in the donut trade (lol) for well over 20 years. My father and uncles have owned, worked as bakers, and managed many donut shops and growing up, I was exposed to the delicious delicacy that is the donut. So I feel that in the regards of donuts, I know my stuff. If you’re wondering about the flavors and toppings they offer, take a peak at the types below:
- Voodoo Doll- Raised yeast doughnut filled with raspberry jelly topped with chocolate frosting and a pretzel stake! (characteristics of Voodoo Dolls are all different)
- Portland Cream -Raised yeast doughnut filled with Bavarian cream with chocolate on the top and two eyeballs!
- Captain my Captain -Raised yeast doughnut with vanilla frosting and Captain Crunch!
- The Loop -Raised yeast doughnut with vanilla frosting and Fruit Loops!
- Grape Ape – Raised yeast doughnut with vanilla frosting, grape dust and lavender sprinkles!
- Diablos Rex -Chocolate cake doughnut with chocolate frosting, red sprinkles, vanilla pentagram and chocolate chips in the middle!
- Gay Bar -Raised yeast doughnut chocked full of luscious cream and all the colors of the rainbow!
- Dirt doughnut -Raised yeast doughnut with vanilla frosting and Oreos!
- Maple Blazer Blunt -It’s a raised doughnut rolled into a blunt with maple frosting and red sprinkle ember, prices vary due to Blazer Mania!
- Marshall Matters – Plain cake doughnut with vanilla frosting and mini M&M’s!
- Arnold Palmer -Plain cake doughnut with vanilla frosting and lemonade/ice tea dust on top!
- Butterfingering -Chocolate cake doughnut with vanilla frosting and Butterfinger crumbles!
- Dubble Bubble -Raised yeast doughnut with vanilla frosting, bubble gum dust and a piece of bubble gum
Voodoo doesn’t lack in the creativity and some of their product names are clever. Aside from the sexually suggestive Gay Bar or blatantly sexual cock-n-balls, the Marshall Matters, Diablos Rex, and Old Dirty Bastard have a certain ring to it when ordering. But what about the flavor? Well, cake speaking, the donuts are solid, there is nothing glorious since the owners and bakers know how a cake donut is properly made (This isn’t a Krispy Kreme type establishment). But some of the flavors, popular as they are, were too much. Any donut with cereal was the victim of stale bites. For a place that produced in mass demand, it seems strange that the donuts would have this problem. In addition to the unique frosting, Voodoo also had it’s claim to the Boston Creme with its counterpart the Portland creme. It was the best donut by far but nowhere near Kane’s donuts in Saugus, MA or the overloaded creme bombs I used to make when I was a young kid. The Old Dirty Bastard was old, dirty, and bastardized. My young cousins loved the abundance of sweetnesss but the frosting, peanut butter and chocolate was too much. The maple bar was as any bacon-lover would expect, tasty. Pair maple with bacon and you have a winner.
Mojo Crepes
The view from above -
I’ve always loved Crepes. They take the flavor of pancakes without the bulkiness. Best of all, they can be had as either a dessert (nutella being my favorite) or as a meal in the form of a Crepe Sandwich. Crepes were once a blooming business for Utah during the late 90′s and early 2000′s. But the craze quickly became a fad and many places such as the European Connection and a Taste of Europe closed shop. After arriving to Portland, my cousin took me to this nearby spot that specializes in Japanese Crepes. These Crepes are folded in cone shape and stuffed with ice cream or shaved iced mixed with an assortment of spreads such as Nutella, Peanut Butter, Sweetened Condensed Milk, Chocolate Syrup and many other tasty items. You can customize your own mix with fruits and cookies or pick from many of the pre-determined Crepe Menu.
Bun Bo Hue
BBH!
People will often speak of Pho as their favorite noodle soup and as much as I love Pho, my favorite noodle soup is easily Bun Bo Hue. Distinct for it’s spicy, lemon grass infused broth, any true Vietnamese, let alone Southeast Asian, will know the great taste that a bowl of Bun Bo Hue – Hue style, with pig blood and hocks, truly offers. The broth is clear and the noodles a thick rice noodle. It’s best served with many of the usual garnishes of Pho (including banana blossoms and various mints) but can be enjoyed best with coagulated pigs blood and ham hock and a bunch of chili sauce (at least in my opinion). My cousin’s husband invited me to his favorite spot and I wasn’t at all disappointed. The place reminded me of being back in Los Angeles as a child and feeling like a part of a special Asian community with all the memories and common identity associate with food. I did have to add a bit more hot oil and chili sauce to my bowl but the service was sweet and the experience uniquely Asian.
Fuji -
I’ll be quick on Fuji but put simply, it’s nice to have connections in Sushi and even nicer when the Sushi is high quality, well produced, and in copious amounts.
Free sushi is the best sushi
Otto’s Sausage Kitchen -
It may not look pretty but it tasted amazing
I happened upon this place when searching online for some of the best hot dogs in the US – I had already been to Steve’s Snappin’ Dogs in Denver, so when I heard that Otto’s was nationally known – I took a detour out of my long day to find it. I was happy I did. I had just barely finished my meal at Pok Pok (I’ll share that experience later), when I realized I was extremely close to Otto’s. Having served the Portland area as a full butcher shop for over 80 years, Otto’s is known for one thing – meat. I walked up to the butcher shop with such excitement and even more so when I peaked into their back room to see them carving up a hanging ham – how much fresher can you get! On this day, they had a barbecue cooking up dogs in the front – a daily occurrence. I ordered their traditional wieners smothered in some spicy mustard and the flavor was instant. Unlike hot dogs which have the obvious processed and artificial taste, this hot dog had a meatier flavor more akin to sausage. I then went into the store and was in Heaven. I’ve always dreamed of having a personal butcher, one whom I could go to to get the usual fresh cut steaks or custom orders. When I walked into Otto’s I was living that dream. Cases and cases with meat and samples! I bought myself a few sticks of their incredible homemade pepperoni and a pound of their Bockwurst and wieners. The Bockwurst was incredible – a German sausage that had a milder and sweet flavor. After getting my treats to go – I had another two classic wieners and imagined sharing the joy with my friends back home.
This post is getting a bit long
Pok Pok
A helping of wings - think Wingers Sticky Fingers but Vietnamese style
Lastly – there’s Pok Pok – I saw this place on TV while watching my favorite show Diners, Drive-ins and Dives – what I remember most from the show was how Thai food was lovingly presented by a อเมริกัน who seemed to convey passion and love for the food. I also remember the word “authentic” being used casually in the spotlight by a bunch of white folks and to lend credibility to that – one Thai male. The food looked incredible in the video as it usually does on TV and I must say that it looked just as appetizing in person – BUT – and that’s one HUGE BUT, I wasn’t impressed. For one, the prices were high, even for someone who had a no budget plan for the trip. Granted, this is coming from a bias viewpoint and one who has been fortunate to eat the actual foods in their native homeland – but I just felt like I was paying a price I shouldn’t have to. I ordered one dish – the Vietnamese Sauce Wings. My waitress suggested it, informing me that it was among the favorite dishes for locals so I bit. And bite I did. There is no hiding the fish sauce in this dish. I love fish sauce like any other Southeast Asian but there was just too much of it here. I can see the allure of so-called trendy and hip eaters or those who assume they are in Portland; the dish was salty, bold, and a direct opposite of American fare so it’s understandable that such a vibrant take on Thai and SE cuisine would be so popular. I won’t take anything away from the chef. I can tell he knows his stuff but if you’re looking for good Thai or Southeast Asian food in Portland, it’s easier to venture out away from the burbs and find the Asian community and their more “authentic” offering.
Lan Su Gardens and Japanese Garden
http://www.portlandchinesegarden.org/
I'd love to host a party or wedding here!
If you are even in Portland, there are two places you need to visit. They are Lan Su Gardens and the Japanese Tea Garden. Each are recreations or representations of their respective cultures and history and each lets you forget for a moment that you’re in an American city. I could spend an entire day meditating and relaxing in both but unfortunately my parking meeting wouldn’t allow it. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves
Conclusion:
My trip to Portland was amazing. It had been a long time since I really indulged myself during a vacation and food-wise, Portland does not disappoint. It has it’s ups and downs and is truly a foodie city. If you want to relax, have your skin constantly moisturized by the incessant rain, and just enjoy the eclectic simplicity of being hip – then visit. Just make sure you don’t say you’d like a plastic bag when you’re at the grocery store.
A Rose by any other name...
Friend Meter: EVERYONE!
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I’ll be posting a few videos in a few days!
Maurilios – A fast post
I’ve been sitting on this post for a while now and I realize that if I don’t post it, it may end up being too late -
I often separate restaurant style Italian food into two categories, those that cater to the high-end and “authentic” Tuscan/Sicilian/Italian sounding food and Italian-American food.
Very similar to the glorious bastardization of Chinese food in America (think Panda Express or any hyphenated ethnic cuisine) Italian food is more American than Italian. Don’t get me wrong, I love this type of food. I grew up eating spaghetti with a thick meat sauce, layers of lasagna with cheese and meat and garlic, garlic, garlic! This includes Fazolis, Coachmans, Spaghetti Factory, Michellina’s frozen dinners and school lunch. - Italian food was carb loaded and simplistic and my first exposure to non-Asian food at home. I’ve posted previously about my childhood memories eating Italian-American food from what people would consider microwave, canned, or low class but I loved every bite! For a poor refugee family as mine – this was a specialty and a gateway food.
Maurilios fits this weird circle of food for me. The food is obviously not on the same level as some of my favorite higher end Italian spots but I was satisfied with what they offered. I didn’t have high expectations at all. But sadly that probably doesn’t fare well for this place. The restaurant opened not so long ago in the plaza that previously housed Eatz-a-pizza and Mountain Mike’s Pizza unsuccessfully. I drive by often and hope that this same fate doesn’t befall them. We need more small businesses and restaurants have a soft spot in my palate.
During my first visit, we were greeted by the owner or wife of the owner who was very warm and friendly. She did her best to accommodate us and provided us with the option of a pizza buffet (salad and soup). The seating had the same feel of the prior establishments with a large open kitchen area that was clearly in view from any seat. I was a bit skeptical because at first sight, the place didn’t seem to offer anything really appetizing. I knew not to expect Cucina Toscana and it’s good that I didn’t. The food was flavorful, albeit a bit salty but generous enough that myself and my guest felt the money we spent matched what we received. Some may argue otherwise. The lasagna was pleasing enough but the pizza looked depressing. The “garlic” bread had a bland texture to it. It won’t blow your mind away with its offerings but for a small restaurant it doesn’t make any bold offerings and fortunately delivers on those lower expectations. I’ve gone twice and while some dishes were hit or miss (Ravioli being a miss), takeout afforded me a larger portion and for someone with a quick feenin’ for Italian a satisfiable Chicken Parm. It’s okay. I’ll leave it at that, it’s okay. I may however opt to go to Fazoli’s down the street instead next time though recent banners I’ve seen advertising lunch specials or even an insert in the menu advertising Mexican food have me curious with raised eyebrow. Here’s a few pictures from one of my visits.
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Lamb – a few pictures
Here are a few pictures of some recipes I’ve recently tested out
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This recipe by Julia Child is my ultimate goal
http://video.pbs.org/video/1177314650
A more lighted view of the kebab/kabob dish
Cedars of Lebanon
152 E 200 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84111
(801) 364-4096
www.cedarsoflebanonrestaurant.com
$$
These past few months, I’ve been reinvigorated with an appreciation of lamb.( I’ll be doing a separate picture post of some recipes I’ve tinkered with). I have mostly my friends Rachel and Tony to thank for this. Rachel has been instrumental in opening up my palate to Indian cuisine and the use of lamb in kabobs and the most incredible curries. Tony has fueled this passion for lamb and its buttery, succulent flavor by showing me the way lamb is made in Irish and Mediterranean cuisine. As a result, I’ve experimented with a number of lamb kabob, shanks, and even stir fry recipes to bring out the young and flavorful offerings of lamb.
In this quest I’ve visited a few locales which offer lamb as a specialty dish – among them, Cedars of Lebanon. Offering Lebanese and Moroccan food, Cedars of Lebanon has many of the Mediterranean flavors and dishes you’d expect. These include items such as Tabouleh and Baba Ganooj, as well as an assortment of kabobs and rice dishes. While I absolutely loved Mazza, Cedars is my new favorite spot. It combines quality Mediterranean food, warm atmosphere, and good prices. For those unfamiliar with this type of cuisine, expect three things: kebabs/lamb, many dips that have olive oil, lemon juice and vegetables (it’s a vegetarian/vegan’s dream), and an aromatic dining experience.
My first Cedars’ visit happened by chance. Out in Salt Lake for a boy’s night out, my party ended up around Cedars. The choice of where to eat was between Vinto and Cedars – Cedars won by majority vote. As we walked in, we were greeted with the gyrating motions of a belly dancer. She had us speechless not because of her revealing outfit but because she seemed to float from table to table towards patrons of all ages who weren’t as bashful as we were. As she swayed her way into the next room, the owner of the establishment quickly greeted us and our adventure soon began. What would soon follow was a warm dining experience capped by quality food and a fun evening.
We started off with Hummus – Hummus is not a complicated dish but when well done is a great precursor to the meal. I love the fresh and vibrant flavors and it was executed nicely. I enjoy two things with Med cuisine, the cooling sensation of their dips and for more Middle Eastern and Indian fare – yogurt/cucumber sauces.We also had Tabboule (Tabouleh) which is another dip consisting of bulgur wheat with parsley, tomatoes, scallions, lemon juice and olive oil. The dip was at the suggestion of our waitress and while I enjoyed it, it had a distinct flavor more akin to a Southwestern-Mexican flavor than Mediterranean. For the main entree, our group kept it simple, we had the Lamb Shish Kebabs, Gyro, and Lamb Shanks.
The Shish Kebabs were full of flavor but not overpowering as to mask the sweet lamb flavor. They had a full bodied flavor and were still medium inside (signs of a good lamb dish – either braised or pink in the middle). They were a bit tough but that’s how I like my kebabs, it’s similar to the texture and toughness of Korean ribs and beef bulgogi – enough of a bite to keep you entertained while eating. The Gyro was good – nothing exceptional – but tasty. My friend who isn’t a fan of this type of food gobbled his gyro up quickly.. Two lamb shanks came with the meal on a bed of rice pilaf and steamed vegetables. (A better value and flavor than the single lamb shank meals you’ll find at MacCools) While the sides were plain, the lamb had been slow cooked and had been braised to a fall-off-the bone tenderness. The owner shared her secret that the lamb was extremely fresh and cooked for at least 3 hours. It did require a little salt to match my salty palate but the young shanks were full of meat and my favorite, marrow!
Friday and Saturday there is belly dancing, so be prepared for fun (clean) and be sure to tip well. My friends and I had a good laugh at the stuttering hand movements of our friend who failed miserably at placing a nice tip. He was obviously new to the experience though I think our belly dancer made it more difficult 
with every hip shake. I’m sure Elvis would have been proud . There is also a Casbah room set up like a Moroccan tent. It’s basically a private dining room. When we were there, a large group entertained a number of guests which included what I believe were some hookahs.
I also went back to Cedars for their lunch buffet. The buffet had a moderate sized selections of dishes but the standouts were easily the curry-type chicken and rice with beef. I don’t usually rate buffets but if you’re looking for a taste of what this place has to offer during the day – try lunch.
All in all, I’m very happy with my visits to Cedars, one return visit the service was a bit slow but I was in now rush. I returned almost 2 months later and the owner remembered me and my guest and even thanked me for coming back. I hope to come back more often.
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Friend Meter: Rachel, Tony, Mediterranean cuisine fans.
Pago – A New Champion Is Crowned!
Pago
878 S. 900 E. Salt Lake City, Utah801-532-0777 http://pagoslc.com/
$$$
I now present to the world, a new culinary champion, a palate-pleasing powerhouse, a king among peasants! Pago had been on my radar for quite sometime but it sat idle on a list of places to visit that totaled almost 50 plus. There were two reasons it took so long; the first reason was that it is a bit pricier than my usual spots and secondly, I don’t prefer going to expensive places by myself so it took a while to find the right guest and time. I want to thank my awesome friend and co-worker Angie H. for finally building me up to go; Sam L. and his GF for helping me celebrate the occasion; And my best friend Rachel, for accompanying me as well.
Pago is very unassuming. It’s hidden right off 9th and 9th (or what I consider the epicenter of East-siders with its hip store and the Tower Theatre). If you are looking for the location, it’s literally right behind the Smiths and next to the Children’s Hour store. It’s a small L-shaped interior restaurant. For my palate adventure, I went to Pago both for lunch and dinner so the taste selections were quite numerous. The restaurant is among a new breed of hip, New American spots which cater to locally produced ingredients while offering fine dining. It’s similar to the Communal and Tin Angel style of food: fresh, fresh, fresh, and a fusion of familiar foods such as burgers, steaks, and potatoes but elevated to a higher art form; particularly for those unaccustomed to dining at places other than Chuck-o-Rama, TGIF and many other cookie cutter chains and American-style restaurants (I’m looking at you Jim’s Family Restaurant).
What made the food so enjoyable was the attention that seemed to have been placed on each meal. It wasn’t too fancy a la a Log Haven or La Caille, but not so low brow as to take away from it’s uniqueness. Here’s a breakdown of each dish:
Lunch:
Pago Burger – (Niman Ranch Beef, Brown Sugar Bacon, Caramelized Onion, Aioli, House Made Chips). I only had a small taste of the burger but it was executed without error. It wasn’t anything extraordinary for a burger; there were no special sauces but the presentation of local meat and the brown sugar bacon gave it a more up-scale flavor. I’m a basic burger guy so restaurant burgers seldom wow me. Good burger nonetheless.
Wagyu Steak Sandwich -(Fried Shallots, Pago Chili Aioli, Arugula, Beehive Cheddar, House Made Chips) – This was where quality meets presentation and price. Wagyu meat is a type of beef from cattle specially bred and fed so that their meat had extra marbling adding to flavor, tenderness and juiciness. When you consider that level of beef with a classic presentation similar to a Philly cheesesteak, you get a mouth-watering, dripping and flowing river of flavor from the sandwich, to your mouth, and to your plate or shirt. Moochies is down the street but if Pago marketed this as a competitor, it might give the Philly down the road, a run for its money.
Anchovies with Avocado, Candied Pancetta, Sweet Vinaigrette on Bruschetta – I love anchovies. I prefer it on my pizza, in pastas and also stir fried. However, this appetizer didn’t satisfy me. It was cleanly prepared but the flavor of the anchovy was overshadowed by the Pancetta and vinaigrette. I have to admit it was a bit tough to eat without having everything fall off. Beautiful presentation, sub-par execution.
Dinner:
Caviar Pillows -(Caviar, Potato Pillows, Creme Fraiche). I’m a big fan of caviar. I’ve had it on limited occasion but each time I have, I’ve enjoyed the saltiness and fresh flavor. Seafood is one of my favorite types of cuisines and there is a comfort to having foods that taste like the best treasures of the sea. The flavor can be found in things such as sushi (sashimi), crab roe, oysters on the half shell, little neck clams, and caviar. Much in the same way that good steak has a heartiness that you associate with red meat, caviar has a flavor that identifies it with seafood. It can be hit or miss though since there are different levels of caviar and I’m definitely not qualified to explain them. I am not certain what type of caviar Pago used but the dish was a good start to my meal. The potato pillows melted away in my mouth with a warm texture that was half potato chip and half-fried mashed potatoes. This was quickly followed by the coolness of creme Fraiche and the final caviar explosion. It’s a bit pricey for such small bites but when ordering anything with caviar it’s best to not go in with an expectation that you’re at an all-you-can eat.
Roasted Marrow – I was looking forward to this dish the most. For anyone who has watched Anthony Bourdain on No Reservations or read any of his books, one of his inclusions for his last meal would be God’s Butter, better known as marrow. I’ve had marrow cooked at home in braised ox tail or beef bone soup; I’ve had it in roasted lamb shanks and grilled T-bone steaks. Marrow may sound unappetizing but Bourdain’s description of it being God’s Butter, with rich, full bodied flavor from the source of all red meat flavor (blood) is to die for. It goes perfect as a spread on toast or best of all, a last treasure in a beef broth served atop white rice with a lime-garlic fish sauce. Sadly, Pago failed in this regard. There was one piece of marrow/bone for this dish and the marrow was oily, missing flavor and almost non-existent. I had to ration my marrow to have enough to spread on the copious pile of croquettes that attempted to mask the obvious failure. Sad indeed.
Pan Seared Scallops – (Sundried Tomatoes, Roasted Eggplant, Curried Beurre fondue). Scallops are a difficult thing for me to order since they offer little in terms of meat and often are lacking in flavor and overcooked. Pago succeeded in providing a flavorful, tomato-based sauce but the dish was a bit lacking even considering the type of price and restaurant Pago is. The scallops were a bit overcooked. However, my friend Rachel, who ordered this dish, loved it.
Free Range Chicken Paillard – (Yukon Gold whipped potatoes, citrus brown butter emulsion, farm greens). This dish was incredible. The whipped potatoes are among some of the best mashed potatoes I’ve had. The serving is ample and the flavor speaks to a familiar palate of grilled chicken breast, potatoes and vibrant gravy. This is a must order for any first visit. Paired with the Angel Hair Pasta that had a pad-thai type flavor, this dish is the most familiar.
Grilled lamb on a bed of lentils- I love lamb. Simply put, if they have this on their rotating menu get it. It was cooked to the perfect rareness, retaining the natural taste that lamb has when you don’t overcook it. It’s a combination of the flavor of pork and sweetness of a great cut beef steak. I enjoyed each bite of this meal more than I’ve ever enjoyed a “single” bite. In fact, this was so tasty that I took about a minute for each nibble and minutes for each full piece of lamb. The bed of lentils were awesome especially with the carrots. I usually have lentils in Asian dessert but the heartiness and almost nutttiness of the lentils added to the full-bodied, slightly gamey lamb flavor. Delicious. Just look at the picture!
Lastly, for dessert a chocolate torte made with Amano chocolate infused with raspberry and served with chocolate sauce and expresso ice cream. There was hardly a smear of chocolate on the plate when we were done with this dish.
Overall, Pago was the best place I’ve eaten at because I went in with the expectation that price would not determine flavor. This was evident in the marrow and to a degree the caviar. Pago stressed fresh, localized products and the reason is that it makes a tremendous amount of difference in taste. Things taste as they should fresh from the vine, farm, or ground in which they are taken. I’ve already begun looking at reasons to go back to Pago more often since my policy usually dictates “try a new place” It’s just too hard to stay away from this great representation of Utah dining class.
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New Pho King Review~! Pho 99
Hey ya’ll,
I have a new review from the Pho King for The Original (albeit in a new location) Pho 99. You can check it out at the link below or by clicking on Pho in the menu. Thanks!
PHO 99 REVIEW
The Reality of Restaurants – Spoony and Nata’s –
The Reality of the Restaurant Business
Ever since I was really young, I have always had aspirations to someday become a professional chef or to open up my own restaurant. Food as you know, has surrounded me with countless memories that I look back upon fondly and it seems the ultimate culmination of these memories would be my own kitchen and studio to showcase my works of culinary arts (or failure in some cases ). As a child, I would often watch my mother toil constantly in the kitchen cooking the most amazing American and Asian meals. My father was never far behind as he often cooked meals for special occasions such as parties, holidays, and family get togethers. I recall my Saturday mornings in front of the television, watching KBYU and KUED (PBS local affiliates) and being in awe of Chefs Martin Yan and Julia Child (she scared me at first with her monstrous stature and indecipherable gibberish. I swear she was the incarnation of the Swedish chef and a stuttering and stammering Goliath). Other cooking experiences included memories of making “homemade” jerky usually ending with over seared ham strips soaked in soy sauce; my version of teriyaki strips. In middle school and high school, I baked religiously, baking up things such as rollo cookies, bread, sugar cookies, NY Cheesecake, Oatmeal Cookies and my favorite, brownies. I’ve continued this tradition today with cooking specials recipes I’ve kept close to the palate such as my family’s egg roll recipe.
But the dream of owning my own eating spot or even sandwich shop has alluded me. I would love to have my own restaurant. Or would I? Researching online, I have found that the restaurant business amounts to roughly 500 billion dollars plus in annual sales revenue (click for link), a fair amount that would be nice to be a part of. There are hundreds of thousands of different types of eating establishments across the US that employ almost 13 million people. Yet the costs and consequences of opening up your own restaurant are infamously perilous. Start up costs for the service sector can be anywhere from 30k to 100k for most basic places and many restaurants aren’t profitable for a long time. Costs for running and maintaining a restaurant rests on maintaining of course revenue, but also inventory, salary, permits, and marketing. It’s no surprise why so many restaurant fail. A close friend of mine who has helped run family businesses overseas was recently interested in opening an Asian fusion restaurant here in Utah. He researched various locations and found that the average rent for places from Fashion Place Mall to the District ran well over $6k plus for rent with the District at $25-$30 a square foot for space (which is tremendously expensive). This didn’t factor in the other costs of insurance, license, taxes, salary, inventory, etc.
But finances aren’t the only peril in restaurants. I have family in Maryland who owned a Chinese/Cambodian restaurant for years. It was profitable but the emotional stress and toll on the family was evident. Working all day long with few days for vacation and being constantly around the same food, smell, and clientele can be draining. Living and working in a service sector industry demands a large amount of time and can easily take over a person’s family and life. Those who are successful in franchising and running restaurants can be said to have the right survival personality in the cutthroat industry but at what costs? Michelin-Star Award wining chef Gordan Ramsey highlighted the perils of owning restaurants in his BBC and respective FOX hit, Kitchen Nightmares, which took struggling restaurants and gave the green light to Cher Ramsey to do a complete overhaul. This was one of my favorite food shows for the conflict that often ensued between owners and Ramsey’s brash, profanity laden diatribe. But quickly, it became apparent that there was so much heartache, stress, and pain with running a restaurant.
This leads me to my actual post – a posthumous post about a spot that seemed very very promising.
My friend, looking saddened knowing this is his first and last meal at Spoony and Nata's
Spoony and Nata’s
Spoony & Nata’s Down Home Cafe 1810 South Main Street SLC, UT 84115 (Closed. Only available for catering) 801-467-0400In the entire time of Peng’s Palate, two restaurants have since closed down. One was Red Rooster which was among the firsts of my posts. The second, surprisingly is a non-published post (yes, I’m still behind) for Spoony and Natas. While technically, they are still offering catering, Spoony and Nata’s restaurant location is currently on hiatus. But this is in no way a result of poor food. In fact Spoony and Nata’s had great food, a very friendly atmosphere led by the cordial owners after whom the restaurant is named. So it’s with some sadness that I submit this review, somewhat with the realization of how fickle the restaurant business can be. I don’t know the exact details and background as to why Spoony and Nata’s are only caterers at this posting. They offered a unique niche food – southern N’Orleans style and weren’t all that expensive. They had great marketing (well, somewhat great considering) via word of mouth advertising and reviews in the local magazines and newspapers but yet they still couldn’t make it. During my visit, I overheard the owner speaking with some patrons about the struggles the restaurant has been up until the review in the Deseret News. Luckily, he mentioned that the restaurant was a dream hobby and they did in fact have other occupations.
So onto the food
During the visit, our options were limited because we arrived later in the day so we kept it simple: Chicken Wings, Fried Catfish and pie.
Now I know this collection of fried foods ignores the jambalaya and gumbo, but the catfish was their specialty of the day and they were out of Jambalaya. The Chicken Wings were whole pieces and not cut portions like you would find at WingCoop, KFC or WingNutz. I prefer a full wing because you get the whole slab rather than precut portions, though I know some people tend to prefer not having the wing tips on. They were seasoned moderately and were tasty albeit noting complicated (you can only do so much to wings). I must acknowledge that I could easily and often do fry up chicken wings with similar taste and ease.
The lighting was off but these wings weren't!
The Catfish really impressed me. I’ve had Catfish at Q4U and some other franchise spots across the valley but they often end up overly dry and small. The portion for this occasion was ample and the catfish had a good flaky and moist bite to it. It was the best restaurant breaded Catfish fillet I’ve had in Utah. We had pie to end our meal but not being a pie person I’ll pass on my memories since pumpkin pie and pies similar to it make me cringe.
Gluttony? No. A full entree for myself and a side of wings.
I guess the only drawback to Spoony and Nata’s is that aside from the Jambalaya (of which I didn’t get to try) most of the food is what you would find at someone’s home or one you could easily make but that’s the allure of comfort food. I enjoyed my meal, liked the small feel of the restaurant (it was previously Pho Tay Ho, my favorite Pho spot, which moved down the block, and contrary to what the owner stated to the patrons who asked, It isn’t a Thai restaurant. It’s Vietnamese. Please get your Asian cuisine right and careful of some of the remarks you make about the prior tenants). Anyhow, I must conclude by saying I hate seeing any restaurant close. I had hope for Spoony and Nata’s and for all small businesses trying to make it in the competitive service industry. I hope these are the only two spots which I post that close. There is another close to closure I believe and for their sake and dreams I pray that they make the necessary improvements to stay afloat. I know the sacrifice and dreams that are lost when a local eating establishment is closed. Aside from the obvious economic sadness that comes with closure is also the closing of a dream that I myself can relate to. If Spoony and Nata ever read this blog, please know I appreciated the effort and sincerity you put into my one and only visit. I hope private catering goes well and that you continue to share your recipes and food and most importantly the stories behind them!
Posting at night is hard when you're hungry and see tasty pictures of Catfish!
My, my, it's American pie...
New Pho Review! Gossip
This has been a long time coming but thanks to the Pho King for his review! Check it out!
CLICK HERE: GOSSIP!
Is the bottle half empty or half full? Neither. It's about 2/3 full stupid!
Tin Angel Cafe: Another Lunch
Stuffed Squash
Heirloom tomatoes, mozarella and some sprouts. SOO DELISH!
I made a visit a while back ago to TAC and never got a chance to post these amazing pictures from their Localvore week. They featured heirloom tomatoes from a local garden. Check out the grub! Still one of my favorites!
Pat’s BBQ
The Real McRib
155 West Commonwealth Avenue (2125 South)
South Salt Lake, Utah 84115
$$
In my family, barbecue is one of two things: spicy or sweet. There is a generic, albeit tasty recipe that is universally applied to many cuts of meat. These include in any combination. oyster sauce, garlic and onion powder, garlic, Korean BBQ sauce, lemon grass, chicken bouillon and basil. Asian barbecue is quite different than typical American barbercue flavors. There is not smoking, no mollasses or brown sugar rub; there is missing, the kind of sweetness that many associate with BBQ. Rather there is a subtle blend of flavors that identify more with savory than sweet. If you consider all the major or chain barbecue restaurants, they’ll include places like Tony Romos, Famous Daves, locally, Q4U, and of course Pat’s. Yet growing up in my diverse palate, my family absolutely abhorred how sweet American grilled meats were. I recall a party for my father’s company that was catered by Joe Morleys. They served brisket, baked beans, slaw and corn. During the entire meal, my mother and father kept saying all American barbecue is sweet. “They put too much sugar!” And that is the bias and palate I grew up with. American barbecue = sweet like candy. Asian barbecue = savory with a side of rice and pickle. But if this were the case, how could so many people love the various types of barbecue; southern, Memphis, Kansas city, Texas, etc? I would have to say that it wasn’t until high school when I started to appreciate the richness of the white man’s grill. I had an amazing pulled pork brisket at a luncheon, tackled Tony Roma’s endless ribs and came to truly embrace the complexities that BBQ sides offered. Coleslaw was my partner in eating heists, cornbread was my accomplice, and baked beans were my ammo. I had been well equipped for my palate to see the best of both BBQ worlds and how they each had a special niche to fill in my palate.
But yet, I came to realize that I live in Utah. Not exactly a BBQ capital of the world let alone the US. Meat can be cooked in an almost infinite number of ways and yet still come out the same. The real trick of BBQ is spice, sides and soft drinks. Everyone has their own rub, their own BBQ sauce, and their own “secret” method, time or equipment to get the best grilled, smoked, baked and even rotisseried food. What I find truly great is how well a BBQ spot can do it’s sides. I’m sure after hours in the fire pit or smoker, BBQ will come out a certain tenderness, aroma, and flavor, but what else to it? Why would I pay 15 bucks to eat 3 ribs off a slab I could buy for 15 in the store and do myself? And do I can (I know, bad grammar) just ask anyone who has had my Heineken or Lager Ribs. MMMMM!
Enter Pats. I’ve been aware of Pat’s BBQ long before it was profiled on Diners, Drive-in, and Dives but it always seemed out of the way and BBQ is usually something I don’t naturally crave. Instead, as you can tell above, I crave the sides. Enter my nephew’s mom. Pregnant at the time, she mentioned how she was hungry for mashed potatoes. I’d heard of Pat’s great and amazing sides and figured it was high-time I gave the pit a visit. It was a mixed bag but overall well. I was definitely satisfied with the meal, BBQ portions always throw me off. The food doesn’t look like it’ll be enough to fill my paint bucket but after a half dozen or so bites and gulps of beverage, I realize that it was more than I could chew (literally). The meats were each cooked extremely well. Not overdone and not undercooked. The pulled pork was my favorite (it usually is) because it naturally lends itself to absorb the BBQ sauce extremely well. Pat’s has three types, but the best by far is the spicy “sweet heat.” The brisket was good but didn’t blow me away. You could see the smoking that caused rimming the ends of the piece. Eaten later as leftovers, I noticed more of an aromatic flavor and smell that made it taste better. Cornbread was cornbread. If anyone knows my Bindu story, they’ll know that cornbread, as good as it can be, honey, butter and all, still brings back bad memories.
So that leaves the greens, slaw, and mashed potatoes.
Greens: I love collard and mustard greens and any stewed greens with my BBQ. Q4U used to have one of the best but have declined a bit. I like my greens cooked and stewed long enough for the greens to fall apart when you chew on them but not to the point where it withers in your mouth. Flavor wise, salt is a necessity but not to cover up the slightly bitter taste of some greens. Pat’s didn’t succeed in impressing me. It had over salted and chemical-like taste. I kept hashing at it in hopes that it would impress me. However, it did not.
Slaw: Very well done. The cabbage was crisp and the seasoning just sweet enough that it didn’t overdo the flavors from the meats. It had a cool refreshing taste and was one helluva portion.
Potatoes: Simply, absolutely, positively impressive. I had mine with a meaty gravy that had chunks of what appeared to be pulled pork. The mash was smooth and blended well with a buttery and flavorful gravy. I would go back or visit just for the potatoes. They were the best. In fact, rather than putting on Pat’s sauces on your meat, ask for a side of gravy instead!
Supposedly the Burnt Ends special they have on Friday is their most popular item and goes quickly - I’ll be sure to stop by on my next visit on that day so I can see if it’s up to the legend.
Overall, I enjoyed my visit. Service was friendly, portions were large (even considering the price) and the sides sold me. Pat’s gets recognized each year by local press and people for the quality and taste. I can definitely see the appeal. I hope for the next visit that I can also go during their evening live music session and take back a few good drinks and sides. Thanks Pat.
Slaw, Greens, and Meat.
The highlight of the meal: Mashers and gravy
Enter your own caption here
Friend Meter: Tony, Thulinh, Justin, Brody, Sam
finance activities of Asians and Asian Americans during the 1996 election year I woul
